Planting beans and harvesting on time

 Planting beans and harvesting on time

When you start setting up a garden before the new season, you are thinking about how it is more convenient to place all the necessary vegetable crops, where to place a garden bed with onions, tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, etc. Moreover, in most cases, gardeners do not even remember planting beans.


But green beans, asparagus and grain beans are incredibly useful for the body! Rich in fiber, plant protein, essential vitamins and minerals, this legume certainly deserves a place on your property. Moreover, planting beans can easily be carried out along the fence, around the house, between rows of potatoes and cabbage, or under fruit trees and shrubs, without requiring separate beds.

By planting beans on your plot, you will immediately kill two birds with one stone: harvest tasty and healthy beans and at the same time prepare the best conditions for growing vegetables in the next season, because this bean crop saturates the soil with nitrogen.

Video about growing beans

Choosing a place for beans depends on which variety you are going to grow. It is most convenient to plant bush beans in the beds or in the aisles of cabbage and potatoes, and braiding beans will feel great in any place - the main thing is that there is a support nearby that can be braided (pole, sunflowers, corn, shrubs, trees or a fence).

Soil and Bean Seed Preparation

Legumes grow and yield best in fertile, well-drained, light soils. If on your site the soil is clay, and the groundwater is close, the beans may not grow at all.

To increase the yield of beans, compost or humus is introduced into the ground before planting seeds, in addition, you can use ammonium nitrate as fertilizer and add a mixture of superphosphate and potassium chloride. An excess of nitrogen in the soil will lead to an increase in the growth of green mass in beans, to the detriment of the development of pods.

To increase the yield of beans, compost or humus is introduced into the ground before planting seeds.

Sowing of beans begins in April-May, but since the seedlings hatch in a week, and frosts in early May are not uncommon, it is recommended to pre-process the beans before planting the beans. Seed treatment is as follows:

  • carefully check the beans for diseased, irregular and damaged beans by the grinder and sort the quality seeds;
  • to accelerate germination, it is better to soak the seeds in melt water overnight (just do not leave the beans in the water for more than 15 hours so that they do not "choke");
  • Before planting, soak the swollen beans for five minutes in a warm aqueous solution of boric acid and ammonium to protect the bean seedlings from the root weevil.

Planting beans and further plant care

When the air temperature rises to 15 degrees, and the likelihood of night frosts disappears, you can start planting beans. The optimum depth of planting beans in the ground is considered to be a depth of five centimeters, too deep planting will lead to a slowdown in germination and the likelihood of beans rotting, and too shallow - to lodging of seedlings.

When planting semi-climbing and curly varieties in the garden, put a two-meter trellis

When sowing bush varieties, leave about 20 cm between the seeds, the next row is sown at a distance of 40 cm from the previous one, the beans are planted in a checkerboard pattern. It is undesirable to do more than four rows.

When planting semi-climbing and climbing varieties in the garden, place a two-meter trellis, digging in two poles and pulling a string or wire between them, and sow seeds on both sides of the trellis. The distance between the beans is maintained at 30 cm. You can plant the climbing beans in nests, dropping five beans into one hole, then instead of a trellis you will need to drive a peg into the ground, around which the plants will subsequently curl. Just do not use a plastic or metal support, as the beans will not be able to snag on it.

After sowing the beans, water the bed and compact it with the back of the rake. Cover crops with covering material to protect against frost at night. When shoots appear, it is recommended to huddle them in order to give the plants resistance.

After sowing the beans, water the bed and compact it with the back of the rake

Further care of beans:

  • before flowering, the sprouts are watered no more than once a week (excess moisture leads to overgrowth of leaves) in dry weather;
  • with the appearance of flowers and bean pods, watering is doubled;
  • after each watering of beans or rain, the aisles must be loosened;
  • remove weeds as they appear;
  • the first feeding with superphosphate is carried out during the formation of the first true leaf, the second time the beans are fed with potassium salt during budding;
  • when the plants reach two meters in height, they need to be pinched from above to stimulate the formation of ovaries.

How and when to harvest beans

The flavor of the beans is greatly influenced by harvest time, so if you want tasty beans, make sure to check the timing and try to harvest the pods in the morning while they are saturated with the moisture of the night. Bean pods are cut with scissors or abruptly cut off while holding the stem with the other hand.

Bean picking video

Harvesting of beans begins two weeks later with the appearance of flowers and is carried out every two days, until all the "shoulder blades" are ripe. Here it is important to consider in what form are you going to consume beans? If you are interested in the pods along with the shutters, collect them until the shutters look green and juicy and are no more than five centimeters long. If you need the beans themselves for cooking, the beans are harvested during the period of milk maturity of the "shoulder blades", when they reach their maximum size and best taste. Already blackened pods are collected for seeds.

It is not only the correct planting of the beans and the timely collection of the harvest that is important - it is also necessary to properly prepare the beans for storage. To do this, the ripe beans are threshed and dried on paper, after which they are stored in containers with a tightly fitted lid so that the fruits do not turn out to be spoiled by insects.

Harvesting beans

Green bean pods can be used to make many delicious dishes. To do this, they must be juicy, with a fleshy green part and not yet formed beans. You can start collecting them 8-10 days after the ovaries have formed. The length, depending on the variety, can be 5-14 cm. To check if the pod is ripe, break it and inspect the place of the break. The structure should be uniform, not fibrous. The pods usually ripen unevenly and can be plucked as needed.

You can extend the fruiting season if you water the beans after the first harvest - this stimulates the formation of new ovaries. All new edible pods, in this case, will appear until frost. In the middle lane, it is possible to collect newly ripening pods on average 1-2 times a week, in the southern regions - 2-3 times.

Early morning is the best time of day for picking: due to the moisture at night, the pods are especially juicy at this time. In order not to damage the plant, they are cut with scissors or cut off, holding the stem with the other hand.

Do not forget that green beans need to be boiled well - this destroys the harmful substance pheazin contained in it.

GARDEN, FLOWER AND GARDEN. Growing beans, beans and peas

Although growing beans not as popular as growing peas or beans. But you should still pay attention to this vegetable garden rich in protein.

Beans, like peas, are undemanding to heat, so they can be planted early, along with or immediately after peas. They are planted with ribbons in two or three lines. Before planting the beans, some gardeners soak the seeds in water for 24 hours.

The distance between the rows should be 30 cm and in a row up to 20 cm between the plants. The seeding depth is 7cm for light soils and 4cm for heavy soils. For a garden bed of 10m2 large seeds of beans go up to 200g, and small up to 120g.

It is worth noting that when growing beans, you do not need to spare water, beans are very fond of moisture. As an experiment, add about one third of the beans to a glass. Pour water over the seeds so that it slightly covers the top layer of the beans. Cover the glass to prevent moisture from evaporating. After two days, you will find that there is no water left in the glass at all, or just a little bit at the bottom of the glass. The beans, after absorbing all the water, will increase in size and will take up more than half a glass.

Bean care consists of weed control and loosening of row spacings. The first time the earth is loosened after the second leaf has appeared, and then 2 - 3 loosenings are still needed, depending on the formation of a crust. In the central and northern regions of Russia, simultaneously with the second loosening, you can slightly huddle the plant.

Harvesting unripe beans should be started at the end of June every 10 days. When the last crop of pods is harvested in the last days of July (if the beans were planted early), it is necessary to cut the stems, and after 2 - 3 weeks other shoots will grow, and in the second decade of September a second crop of young beans will be obtained.

Beans also good grow, compacting the planting of potatoes, sowing seeds in the row of potatoes, in the hole along with the potatoes or between the holes, but always in the same row with the potatoes.

The value of the beans is that they are rich in protein and are stored dry all winter. Take note.

Growing beans, like all legumes, is popular among gardeners. Sometimes, due to its nutritional value, beans are called garden meat.

And for good reason, because the nutritional value of beans is very high.

Of the whole family of legumes, beans are the most thermophilic plant. Her love for warmth can be compared to cucumbers.

Bean seeds begin to hatch at a ground temperature of 9 degrees Celsius. Bean sprouts are afraid of even minor frosts, so you need to sow beans so that they sprout after frost.

In the central regions of Russia, the most optimal time for planting beans is between the last decade of May and the first decade of June.

The beans are planted in rows every 40 cm, but it will be better if you plant them with ribbons in 2 - 3 lines every 25 cm. In a row, the distance between shoots is up to 12 cm.

Seeds are sealed to a depth of 4 cm. It is not necessary to plant deeper, as in cold soil the seeds can rot. Up to 120g of seeds are consumed per 10m2 meters.

Bean care consists of weed control, a little hilling and loosening of the row spacings. Weed control and loosening can be combined in one procedure.

If the beans are curly, then you can install a support or pull the twine. After a week - one and a half after the ovary is formed - the beans can be harvested on a shoulder blade.

The collection is carried out every five days. Before the onset of frost, beans can be harvested up to eight times, and more in the southern regions. Beans are of climbing and bush varieties. Curly beans are mostly late ripening

Depending on the structure of the bean, the varieties are: shelling, semi-sugar, sugar. Sugar varieties are divided into fiber-free and fiber-free beans. The period of growth and development of beans from planting to ripening is 80 - 120 days, depending on the variety, from planting to collection on the shoulder blade 50 - 60 days.

As growing beans, like growing peas, for gardeners is not a very laborious and costly business, I would like to advise gardeners to grow these crops for their own pleasure and benefit.

Growing peas in Russia has been widespread for a long time. Soups, stews, cereals were prepared from it, and used as a filling for pies.

Peas have been one of the main crops in our country for a long time.

This plant of the legume family tolerates low temperatures well. Its seedlings can withstand a short drop in temperature to three degrees below zero. Peas must be sown very early, as their seeds begin to germinate at 2 degrees Celsius.

In central Russia, you can start sowing in the second decade of April. To accelerate the germination of peas, its seeds can be soaked in water for 2-3 days. You can also keep the peas wrapped in moistened cotton wool, gauze or any other fabric. The main thing is moisture.

Seeding is done to a depth of 4 cm. Peas are planted in a garden bed or on a flat surface. When growing peas, the optimal number of rows, both in the garden and on a flat surface, is 4-5. The distance between the rows is 20cm. In a row, pea seeds are planted at a distance of 5 cm from each other. On a garden bed with an area of ​​10 sq.m. requires 150 to 250 grams of seeds.

When shoots appear, it is necessary to weed the weeds in the row and loosen the aisles. If the pea variety is high, then it is necessary to install props or pull on twine and pegs, otherwise some of the plants may simply die. It should be remembered that the absence of backwaters significantly reduces the yield.

The harvest of the shoulder blades begins to be harvested a week and a half after flowering. The largest amount of sugar is found in peas or in their shells at a young age.

A spatula or pods of green peas are harvested every three days. Old pods must be plucked from the plant, without leaving them on the lash, so that the formation of new pods is not delayed.

To dramatically increase the yield of peas, you need to water it during fruiting, since peas are a moisture-loving plant, however, like all legumes. Peas bear fruit for an average of three to four weeks, depending on weather conditions.

Dry weather is not favorable for fruiting and therefore the fruiting period is shorter, in wet weather the fruiting is longer.

Growing peas is of interest both for food purposes and for medicinal purposes. It is used as a decoction to treat kidney stones, and pea flour helps with boils and boils.

How to choose the right variety of beans for your home

You can plant beans not only in a greenhouse, but also on an insulated loggia. The location of the seedlings should be located along the wall so as not to shade other crops.

If the choice fell on climbing shrubs, then it is better to put a garden trellis on the balcony, around which the beans will bloom.

For the home, purchase the following varieties:

  1. Butter king - the pods are shaped like a tube, you can collect them 60 days after planting. Ripe fruits can be used as salads and frozen.
  2. Caramel - is immune to common bean diseases.
  3. Saksa 615 is a hybrid variety with a low height. The shape of the pods coincides with the "Oil King" variety, and is ideal for beginner gardeners who plant beans on the windowsill.

To select seeds, certain rules must be taken into account.

Seeds that will allow you to grow beans at home, choose according to the following criteria:

  • good beans should have maximum flowability
  • the surface of the beans must be clean, without any plaque
  • the beans must be smooth, the same size
  • whole seed packaging
  • leguminous varieties must have a dense, resilient and firm pod
  • in a good pod, the beans cannot be felt or viewed.

How to collect and harvest cloudberries?

Cloudberry is a very bright, tasty and healthy berry that both children and adults enjoy with undisguised pleasure. This amazing berry is used with equal success in cooking and in folk medicine, but not everyone knows how to properly collect and harvest cloudberries.It's time to fill this annoying gap in knowledge and find out how this is done after all!

Where and how does cloudberry grow?

Cloudberry is quite widespread in the northern latitudes, or, to be more precise, in the forest-tundra and tundra. In forest conditions, this useful berry grows in the same way as cranberries, that is, near rivers and in swamps. This plant is very fond of high humidity, in addition, most often it can be seen growing in the shade.

When and how to collect?

Cloudberry is not a single berry, it tends to grow in a rather lush carpet, which is why it is very convenient to pick it both by hand and using a special harvester for picking berries. As a rule, cloudberries ripen in July (about forty-five days after the beginning of flowering), and its fruits are very similar to raspberries - they look like drupes consisting of several parts, while each part of such a drupe has a very impressive stone inside. Cloudberries are a close relative of raspberries, and sometimes these berries are even confused: the fact is that unripe cloudberries are colored in red tones similar to the color of raspberries, and ripe cloudberries can boast of a fairly saturated bright yellow color. If the cloudberry was collected exactly red, then it must be allowed to ripen.

It is necessary to collect cloudberries in such a way that in no way damage the berries that are vulnerable to the slightest pressure. Ideally, the berries should not be overripe, that is, it is best to pick cloudberries with a slightly reddish tinge and then let them ripen, rather than pick up a whole bucket of overripe berries and then not know what to do with them. The berries are usually picked together with the sepals, carefully placing them in containers of small height - this approach will help not to crush the berries and not damage them during transportation.

How to procure?

Before you start harvesting or just send the cloudberries for storage, you need to sort it out, and this must be done very carefully so that the berries are not damaged. During sorting, all crumpled and painful berries, as well as heavily damaged specimens and berries with black spots are rejected.

If cloudberries were harvested immature, then at home they will ripen very quickly. At the same time, you can let it ripen in different ways: firstly, you can simply put the berries together with the sepals in a fairly cool place (in such conditions, cloudberries usually ripen in just three days), and, secondly, it is quite acceptable to lay cloudberries in an even layer on a paper towel on the windowsill and leave it that way for two, three or four days.

Most often, cloudberries are either eaten fresh or made into a wonderful jam. And slightly unripe berries can be dried - for this they are laid out in a thin layer on pallets and laid out in well-ventilated rooms, where there is no direct access to the scalding rays of the sun. Plus, unripe cloudberries make great pickled berries! To prepare berries in this way, they are sorted out, poured into a jar and poured with boiled water (the water should be at room temperature). If desired, for every three liters of water, you can add half a glass of sugar. Next, the banks are covered with gauze and transferred to a cool place. Cloudberries in this form are perfectly stored from six months to two years! And the degree of its maturity in this case does not matter at all - there is no need to let the cloudberries ripen!

As for the harvesting of cloudberry leaves, used for the preparation of a wide variety of decoctions, they must be collected for these purposes when buds begin to form on the berry bushes and the flowering period starts - it is during this period that cloudberry leaves can boast the largest amounts of all kinds of useful substances. In this case, it is best to collect the lower leaves and those leaves that are in the middle of the stems. And one more important nuance - in order not to harm the plants, it is recommended to collect no more than one third of the total volume of leaves from each bush. If you neglect this rule, cloudberry bushes can start to hurt, and next year they are unlikely to please with a good harvest!

How to grow beans?

Caring for beans after seed germination is not much different from caring for other plants. The soil in which the plant is planted periodically needs loosening and weeding. Also, the beans need to be fed. To do this, during the period of the appearance of the first leaf at the shoots, superphosphate is used in an amount of 30-40 g per 1 square meter, and during the formation of buds - 10-15 g per the same unit area of ​​potassium salt.

Before buds are formed, the beans are watered once a week: watering should be abundant, and rainwater or tap water that has settled during the day should be used for it. When the first five leaves appear on the plant, watering is stopped before flowering, and then the volume of water for irrigation is gradually increased.

The first loosening is shallow, it is carried out at the moment when the seedlings grow up to 7 cm. The second time the soil is loosened two weeks after the first, combining this process with hilling. The same loosening with hilling is repeated before closing the rows.

Curly beans also need support. They should be up to one and a half meters high, with wire stretched over them. You need to attach the shoots of the plant to them with a rope.

Beans are harvested for fresh consumption as they ripen, for storage as the pods turn yellow. The pods removed from the beans should be hard and yellowed, and the beans in the pod should be smooth and low in moisture. Only in this case the beans are considered ripe.

If you are going to please yourself with bean dishes, then first it is recommended to fill it with water and leave it for 8-10 hours to swell and soften. This will speed up its preparation and reduce the content of oligosaccharides, which complicate digestion.

How to care for beans outdoors: basic rules

High-quality and timely care is the key to a good harvest of beans. At the same time, you need to start caring for the plant as soon as you see the shoots. By the way, seedlings appear 7-21 days after planting, depending on the variety and conditions.

  • If you planted a crop tightly, then when shoots appear, you need thin out plants so that there is a distance of 20 cm between them. In this case, the weakest specimens must be removed.
  • After germination of seedlings, it is necessary loosen soil in the garden. The procedure will improve the oxygen supply to the root system. The first time loosening is carried out when the plants reach a height of 6-7 centimeters, the second - 2 weeks after the first procedure, the third loosening - shortly before the rows close. But this must be done as carefully as possible so as not to damage the roots of the plant. The optimum loosening depth is about 4-5 cm.
  • When the bushes reach a height of 10 centimeters, it is necessary to produce hillingso that the plant is more stable in the ground. Thus, the 2nd loosening and hilling is carried out simultaneously.

  • Timely important remove weedsso that they do not take nutrients and moisture from the plant.
  • Beans you need regularly to water, but do not forget that she does not like waterlogging and waterlogging. Abundant watering is especially important during the budding and flowering period (while shortly before flowering, it decreases, then resumes gradually). During the ripening period of the crop, watering is reduced.
  • Curly beans need to be tied upb to the support (trellis, fence or other structure). The height of the support is about 1.5 meters. If you planted seeds by the nesting method around the support pillar, then you need to attach a twine for each plant from it to the ground.

  • When the curly beans are two meters high, you can pinch top. Pinching will stimulate the formation of ovaries.

You can harvest beans for fresh consumption as they ripen. In this case, the pods are recommended to be cut with scissors, and not by hand.

If you are interested in storing the crop, then you can only harvest it after the pods turn yellow and become hard.