Kalanchoe adorns the collections of many amateur flower growers. It is loved for its abundant and beautiful flowering, which can last up to 6 months a year. However, flower growers are often faced with the fact that Kalanchoe does not bloom, even with proper care and the necessary fertilizing. It must be remembered that everything is in your hands - a little effort and your green pet will definitely bloom.
Why Kalanchoe does not bloom
Being puzzled by the problem of why the Kalanchoe does not bloom, you need to know that the plant belongs to the genus of succulent tropical plants.
Kalanchoe adorns the collections of many amateur flower growers
Therefore, in order for a tropical flower that loves warmth to feel comfortable and grow willingly at home, it is necessary to maintain certain conditions. Illiterate care can lead not only to the lack of flowering, but also to the death of the Kalanchoe. The main mistakes made by florists when caring for a plant are as follows:
- Unsuitable soil mixture
The most suitable soil for Kalanchoe, as for any succulents, is neutral or slightly acidic. Since the plant is a little capricious, it is better to purchase ready-made soil in a specialized store. If you have a desire to prepare the soil at home, then experienced florists advise making the soil in the following proportions: sod land - 4 parts, leafy soil - 2 parts and one part of peat and sand. Mix all components thoroughly and additionally introduce flower food.
Video about the benefits of Kalanchoe
- Lack of lighting
When choosing a place for a pot with a Kalanchoe, it should be borne in mind that on the windowsill on the north side, the plant will receive less light, which leads to a lack of flowering, as well as to an unpleasant modification of the leaves: the petioles are pulled out, and the shoots become more rare. However, the flower also does not like direct sunlight, as they can burn delicate leaves. But in general, culture loves a lot of light, and refuses to bloom with its lack.
- Short daylight hours
As has been noted more than once above, the homeland of the Kalanchoe is the tropics. Light tropical day has a duration of 12 hours, and all year round. In our latitudes in winter, the length of daylight hours is only 5-6 hours. Therefore, for good growth, the flower in the autumn-winter period must be additionally highlighted. At home, this can be easily done using a fluorescent lamp with a warm glow spectrum.
For good growth, the flower in the autumn-winter period must be additionally highlighted
- Too much or insufficient watering
Watering Kalanchoe should be carried out taking into account the fact that succulents are plants of deserts and semi-deserts. Frequent and plentiful watering of the flower is completely unnecessary. It is optimal to water twice a week in spring and summer, in autumn and winter no more than once a week. But you should never forget about watering, since in case of severe drought, the Kalanchoe can throw off the leaves. It is worth spraying the plant only in hot, dry weather.
- Violation of the temperature regime.
When deciding why the Kalanchoe does not bloom, be sure to remember to create the flower at the optimum temperature for flowering. Flower buds, as a rule, are formed in the cold season - the optimum temperature for this process is 16-18 degrees. But at home, in the winter season, the air temperature is much higher and sometimes rises above 250C. Therefore, if possible, then from late autumn to spring it is necessary to place the plant in a cooler place - a warm loggia or a glazed balcony.
How to make Kalanchoe bloom
In addition to all of the above, in order for the flower to regularly delight with its flowering, it is necessary to carry out the regular formation of the bush. When working with a bush, you must adhere to the following rules:
- All old peduncles must be removed. This should be done after the flowering period of the Kalanchoe has ended.
- At the same time, it is necessary to cut off all excess shoots and give the bush the desired shape.
- Do not miss the moment and regularly monitor the flower, timely removing all unnecessary shoots.
In order for the flower to regularly delight with its flowering, it is necessary to carry out the regular formation of the bush.
As already noted, at home, you need to constantly monitor the Kalanchoe. After removing old peduncles, new shoots will not be slow to appear. It is necessary that they grow a little, and then remove all the upper leaves again. Young shoots will soon appear on the pinching places, which must be pinched as soon as the third pair of leaves appears on them. The last pinching of the Kalanchoe should take place in November. If the peduncles did not appear, then pinching is allowed at the end of March. If all the pinching and removal of excess shoots were timely and done correctly, then in the end you should form a beautiful and lush bush, which will soon begin to pick up buds for flowering.
In addition, if you want the plant to bloom regularly, you need to monitor its health, and you will have to do this constantly! When the soil overflows, the flower begins to weaken and become susceptible to the attack of powdery mildew, spider mites, gray mold and other possible diseases. In these cases, there can be no talk of any flowering - the main thing is to try to do everything possible to revive and save the plant.
Video about the conditions for caring for the Kalanchoe
Shock therapy in relation to Kalanchoe is rarely used, but if the flower ceases to bloom under all conditions, then the following actions should return the plant to normal. So, as a shock therapy, the Kalanchoe is wrapped in a fairly dense covering material and placed in a dark place where the plant is kept for three weeks without any watering. After the expiration of the specified period, the flower pot is returned to its original place, watering is carried out and fertilizing is carried out with a special fertilizer.
And finally, I would like to note that the Kalanchoe, like any other plant, will definitely respond to your care and attention. The main thing is not to let everything take its course, remember that at home the Kalanchoe can feel great and bloom!
Before dealing with the problem, you need to understand when Kalanchoe blooms. The answer to this question depends on the type of plant. The most popular types, which are grown at home, are framed with buds in early winter and delight with flowering all winter and early spring.
Other varieties of Kalanchoe have been bred, on which buds appear only in spring. Flowering lasts all summer, ending in September or October.
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Now let's consider why Kalanchoe does not bloom, but grows upwards. There are many reasons for this phenomenon, but they are all associated with improper care of the plant.
So, Kalanchoe does not bloom in the following situations:
- Incorrect room temperature. The plant feels comfortable if the temperature ranges from +18 ° С to +29 ° С.
- Bad light. Lack of light becomes the reason for the weakening of the Kalanchoe and the appearance of diseases. The leaves begin to reach for the light source, but the buds never appear.
- Soil moisture problems. Both deficiency and excessive watering negatively affect the condition of the plant. Kalanchoe prefers slightly dry soil. Otherwise, due to excessive moisture on the plant, a fungus may form, the appearance of diseases and pests is possible.
- Improper use of fertilizers. Their deficiency leads to an increase in the number of leaves, and an excess leads to a slowdown in plant growth.
- Lack of trimming. If you refuse this procedure, the Kalanchoe will not have enough strength to form flowers.
- Untimely transplant. The buds will not appear if the procedure is carried out at the wrong time. Transplant the plant in late summer.
- The presence of diseases. If the plant is infested with pests or suffers from various diseases, flowering will not begin until you stop the problem.
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Let's note one more important nuance why Kalanchoe does not bloom. There are hybrid plant varieties on which flowers appear only once. To insulate yourself from such disappointment, be sure to consult with the seller before purchasing a flower.
Why Kalanchoe doesn't bloom: Nur.kz
Begonia: description of the flower, characteristics and photos. What does begonia look like?
Begonia grows in various ways: in the form of grasses creeping on the ground, tall erect bushes or dwarf shrubs. A well-developed root system of begonia is branched, fibrous or tuberous. Begonia, which has a root in the form of tubers, can be grown not only indoors, but also in the garden. Other types of begonias are grown only at home.
The begonia leaf has an asymmetrical shape. It can be solid or split into several lobules with wavy or jagged edges.
In most plants, the lower part of the leaf is colored reddish, brown or dark purple, and the upper part is either solid green or a variety of colors with geometric patterns, strokes and blotches. In some species of begonias, the surface of the stems and leaves is covered with small villi.
Begonia inflorescences consist of several small, medium or large flowers. The color of begonias is solid red, pink, yellow, orange, white, or with edging of various shades along the edges of the petals. The plant has a complex inflorescence - it is made up of male and female flowers, over which, after pollination, a fruit is formed that has the shape of a triangular box with small seeds inside.
Begonia blooms in summer and autumn, and indoor begonia can bloom until December.
Why fuchsia does not bloom - find out the cause of the problem
Last update Aug 7, 2019 407 0 Tell me why fuchsia does not bloom? It has been growing for me for the second year already and has turned from a small cutting into a lush beautiful bush. But I still can't wait for the buds.
It seems that I water and fertilize on time. What could be the reason?
Why fuchsia does not bloom - possible causes of the problem
Today we will not dwell on the topic when a plant suffers from pests and diseases. It is quite natural that a weakened bush is fighting for survival and it is no longer up to flowering. It's about fuchsia, outwardly healthy and actively growing. But this does not mean that she will delight with flowering. Sometimes even such specimens are reluctant to bud. And the reason for this may be a violation of the growing conditions or improper care of the flower.
Inappropriate growing conditions delaying bud setting
In general, fuchsia is a fairly “comfortable” culture and feels good in indoor conditions. However, it is worth considering some of the plant's maintenance requirements. So, in some cases, a green pet refuses to bloom if he doesn't like something, namely:
- The room is poorly lit. Fuchsia belongs to light-loving cultures and the northern windows are definitely not for her. At the same time, the lighting should be diffused.
- Too hot in the room, especially in winter. The maximum temperature that the bush can withstand is 25 -30 ° C in summer, otherwise it will drop the ovary and foliage. In winter, the plant should be kept cool (about 10 ° C). If the wintering is warm, the bush will not rest, and it is unlikely to bloom.
- Unsuitable soil. A light substrate dries quickly, while a heavy one, on the contrary, retains moisture for a long time. This prevents the appearance of thin roots, and it is with their help that moisture enters the aerial part. Fuchsia needs a substrate based on coconut fiber or containing vermicompost.
- Large pot. Until the root system fills the entire space of the flowerpot, the fuchsia will not bloom.
Some varieties do not bloom until long branches (at least 6 internodes) have grown.
What care errors affect flowering
In addition to good lighting, fuchsia has other requirements. If they are not followed, flowering will either not come at all, or it will be meager and inexpressive. This is possible for the following reasons:
- Improper watering. Both waterlogging and lack of moisture will not be beneficial. In the first case, the roots may rot, in the second, leaf fall will begin and the bush will begin to dry out. But the flower is very fond of spraying.
- Nutritional deficiency or excess nutrients in the soil. Fuchsia needs to be fed regularly from spring and all summer. Well stimulates the formation of flower buds phosphorus - potassium fertilizer. But you shouldn't use it more than 1 time a week. An overfed plant will age faster, and the flowering time will be shortened.
- Late pruning. The first time the bush is cut off before it is sent for the winter, more than half of the shoots are shortened. It is advisable to carry out the spring procedure before the end of March, until active growth begins.
How to make fuchsia bloom - video
Finding out why the leaves of cyclamen curl and how to deal with it?
Cyclamen is one of the favorite types of plants, popular among people who want to create home comfort with fresh flowers. Its flowering surprises with its colorfulness, and flower care is not difficult - the main thing is to prevent the beginning problems in time.
In the article we will consider the features of caring for cyclamen, the reasons for folding the leaves and how to counter this.
Lovers of indoor flowers speak differently about cyclamen: some believe that the flower is unpretentious, while others argue that it is a capricious plant. Actually cyclamen needs sunlight, but cannot tolerate direct sunlight.
In addition, the flower must be kept at low temperatures - in winter it should not be higher than 14 ° C, in summer - up to 25 ° C. When watering, the flower should not be poured, and most importantly, do not wet the buds with tubers, from this they can rot. You will learn how to save a flooded flower in this article.
Cyclamen blooms in the cold season, from late autumn to March. It is during this period that it is advisable not to overheat the flower. The dormant period of the plant is not expressed in the European cyclamen, but in the Persian there are expressive signs of this period:
- stops blooming
- leaves turn yellow
- cracks may appear on the tuber.
Leaf blades collapse: norm or pathology?
Leaf rolls, especially when they are harsh, should be a cause for concern.... On the one hand, this may be a signal of the beginning of a dormant period, however, if the leaves, for some unknown reason, suddenly twisted together with the flowers, and at the same time the flower released many new young leaves, the point is different.
Some cyclamen diseases can manifest themselves in curling and yellowing of the leaves, so it is very important to notice the problem in time and not to confuse the disease with the onset of the dormant period.
Check out the photo of a cyclamen with leaves curling down:
Why do cyclamen leaves curl? Let's take a look at the common causes, discarding the option to go to rest.
Since the flower needs feeding, it is important to feed it correctly.... If the feeding contains a large amount of nitrogen, the plant's immunity decreases. In addition, if the flower lacks nutrition, the leaves grow small, and cyclamen does not bloom.
You need to feed cyclamen constantly, for this it is better to use complex mineral fertilizers.Fertilization is especially recommended during the flowering period.
Cyclamen loves cool rooms, in no case should it be placed near batteries and other heating means - the flower will immediately react to high temperatures. During the flowering period, it is better to remove the plant in a room where it is cool: the ideal temperature for it will be about 14 ° C. Due to the fact that it is almost impossible to maintain such a temperature in summer, it is necessary to take care of the transfer of the flower or its cooling in advance.
In the same time you can not leave the flower in a draft - the plant does not tolerate the constant movement of cold air... Ventilate a cool room well enough.
When transplanting cyclamen, you need to remember that the flower does not need a lot of extra space, so it is important to choose a pot that will not be spacious. The size of the pot should depend on the age of the flower - a diameter of up to 8 cm is acceptable for an age of 1-1.5 years, and a diameter of up to 15 cm is for a flower about 3 years old.
Like any plant, insects can harm cyclamen:
- Aphid. It affects cyclamen more often than other pests and often completely covers the leaves.
- Thrips. They appear under conditions of elevated temperature and lack of moisture in the air.
- Cyclamen mite. May infect leaves at high humidity. Outwardly it looks like settled dust.
To identify pests, you need to carefully examine the leaves on both sides. Quite often they "hide" from the back of the leaves.
We wrote in more detail about the pests of cyclamen in another material.
The process of watering the plant is very important: after transplanting, you need to water the flower a little, and only when the owner sees new leaves, you can gradually increase the amount of watering to normal and start feeding the cyclamen.
During watering, you need to ensure that moisture does not get on the tuber. If this happens, remove moisture with a dry cloth. In no case it is impossible to overmoisten the soil - this can lead to rotting of tubers.
Also, the soil can be contaminated initially. In order to check this, you need to get the flower out of the pot and carefully examine the tuber. If there are violations of integrity, soft spots or dents on it, such pieces must be well cleaned from the ground and carefully cut off. It is better to dry the cut sites a little and treat with crushed activated carbon. Then transplant into another pot.
What to do in case of illness?
The procedure for a flower disease depends only on the cause of the curling of the leaves. It is important to first make sure that the flower does not go into rest mode - in this case, the leaves turn yellow and curl gradually.
- Malnutrition. If the flower has not been fed for a long time and the reason is a lack of nutrition, you can purchase a universal mineral fertilizer and feed the cyclamen.
- Heat. In the case when the reason for curling the leaves is an elevated temperature, you need to move the plant to a cooler room. It is important to monitor the temperature, and you can use a regular room thermometer for this.
- Large pot. When a flower has a lot of space in a pot, it is imperative to transplant it into a new pot, which is about the size of the tuber diameter.
- The appearance of pests. If pests are found, it is necessary to isolate the flower from other indoor plants, and be sure to identify the type of pest:
- the fight against aphids consists in treating the plant with insecticides - you can wipe it with a cotton pad dipped in a solution or sprinkle it from a spray bottle
- to kill thrips, insecticide spraying is also suitable
- insecticides do not work on the cyclamen mite - it is necessary to cut off damaged leaves, flowers and buds, treat with chemical acaricides.
To protect a flower from diseases, it is enough to monitor the environment, especially the air temperature in the room, to prevent the sun's rays from falling on the leaves, and to follow the watering rules.
If a decision was made to transplant due to the fact that the flower no longer fits in the old pot, after changing the "housing", you need to monitor the condition of the leaves and tubers. Water the cyclamen carefully, at the very edge of the pot.... You can also use a tray - pour water into it, and place the flower so that the water covers at least half of the tuber. After a while, the cyclamen must be taken out and the water must be allowed to drain well. Find out what to do if you flooded the flower here.
Periodic spraying of insecticides will help protect against pests... In conclusion, it should be noted that with proper care, such problems with the flower will not arise.
Ventilate the room regularly to avoid waterlogging and decay. Observance of basic safety measures will allow you to enjoy beautiful flowering throughout the winter and ensure the good condition of the flower that can be propagated.
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Planting and care, pruning, reproduction
The genus Yarrow belongs to the Astrov family and includes over a hundred species. The area of growth is located mainly in Asia, some of the species are North American. There are disputes among scientists about some species - they belong to the genus Yarrow or Tansy.
Representatives of this genus are perennial grasses, in rare cases, semi-shrubs. The shoot is straight, the foliage is toothed, alternate, the flowers form inflorescences-shields, the color of the flowers depends on the species, but mainly pink, yellow or white.
Types and varieties
About 30 species of the genus Yarrow are cultivated. Among them, the most common ornamental plants are:
Yarrow - a low-growing species, the shoot of which grows only up to 10 cm. Its foliage casts a whitish color, well suited for creating thickets of compact clumps in the garden.
Yarrow - a species, the shoot of which grows up to half a meter, the foliage is pinnately dissected, the flowers are light yellow in color.
Yarrow meadowsweet - a tall species reaching a meter in length. Powerful shoots, bluish foliage, feathery, large yellow inflorescences.
Yarrow ptarmica - also known as sneeze herb. The shoot is powerful, can grow above a meter, the foliage is thin, lanceolate, the flowers are white. Popular variety Pearl oysterhaving double flowers.
Yarrow or drug - perennial growing up to 80 cm. Shoots are thin, strongly leafy, foliage is dissected, inflorescences-shields of white or pink color. Quite common varieties Red corduroy with red flowers and Terracotta - with orange.
Asian yarrow - the height of the stem is about 85 cm, the shoots have a gray tint due to the fact that they are covered with fluff, the foliage is pinnately dissected, the inflorescences are pink or purple.
Felted yarrow - a low-growing plant that is well suited for rock gardens. The stems are covered with fluff, the foliage is feathery and dissected, the flowers are bright yellow. Sometimes you can find a variety Aurea, the bushes of which grow weaker.
Planting and leaving
Caring for yarrow is not at all burdensome. In the wild, it often grows in difficult conditions, and due to this, it is also distinguished by its unpretentiousness in culture.
The composition of the soil is not critical for yarrow. Almost any soil is suitable, including poor, sandy, but the best result will be obtained if the substrate is sufficiently nutritious, loose and contains lime, which means it has an alkaline reaction.
The presence of a drainage layer is also important. As for the yarrow ptarmik, then loams are suitable for it, since the natural habitat of this species is a marshland.
For planting, you should choose bright places, in this case the shoots will be strong and they are unlikely to need support, it is desirable that there are no other plants nearby, since yarrow is an aggressive plant that easily captures territories and survives other crops.
Watering is required about once a week when hot weather sets in. If it is not too hot outside, but there is no rain, then watering is also required, but less often. Curtain species can withstand low moisture levels longer than high ones.
Once every 4-6 years, the yarrow is transplanted, while dividing the bush. This is done mainly in the spring. Old individuals are dug up and cut off from them and strong parts of the rhizome are planted, from which young shoots come.
Yarrow does not need frequent fertilization. It is undesirable to make top dressing more than twice a year. Usually one feeding with full mineral fertilizer is enough in spring. It is better not to resort to organic matter once again - this culture does not accept it well.
When flowering ends, the inflorescences should be cut off, thus you will increase decorativeness and protect yourself from excessive occupation of territories by a plant that easily reproduces by self-sowing.
With the onset of cold snaps, the shoots are cut to 15 cm in length. Shelter for the winter is required only for young plants, and also if you live in a region with very cold winters. Ordinary dry foliage can be used as shelter.
The collection of yarrow flowers, which are known for their medicinal properties, is carried out simply during flowering. The inflorescences are cut from the top of the plant and dried. Store dried flowers in cloth or paper envelopes in places where they will not damp.
Growing from seeds
The reproduction of yarrow by dividing the rhizome has already been mentioned above. Also, this culture can be propagated by seed and cuttings.
Please note that seed propagation does not preserve the varietal characteristics of plants, and this also applies to hybrids from different species. The seeds are simply scattered on the ground and sprinkled a little with soil on top.
For planting seedlings, you can take a regular substrate and mix it with coarse grain sand in a one-to-one ratio. When 3-4 true leaves appear on the sprouts, a dive is carried out, but this is done extremely carefully, since the root system of young plants is very weak.
With the formation of 4 pairs of leaves on the sprouts, they can be planted in open ground, not forgetting about the tenderness of the rhizome. Also, seeds can be sown directly on a flower bed, and besides this, do not forget that yarrow is prone to self-sowing.
Propagation by cuttings
Cuttings are carried out in the summer using green cuttings. The material is immersed in water with a preparation to enhance root formation and soon roots appear, after which it is possible to transplant into the ground.
Diseases and pests
Yarrow is very rarely sick, and pests practically do not touch it at all - it even drives away most of them, since it is a repellent.
In rare cases, defeat may occur striped weevil... This insect feeds on the foliage of the plant, and its larvae sharpen the rhizome. It multiplies rapidly at warm temperatures. If this pest is found, it is advised to resort to chlorophos, and to destroy the larvae - to the pesticide hexachloran.
Yarrow is widely known for its medicinal properties. It has a disinfecting and anti-inflammatory effect, has a positive effect on the gastrointestinal tract - it improves the appearance of mucus and reduces the amount of gas, helps with insufficient secretion of the pancreas.
Thanks to its antibacterial action, this culture helps with burns and wounds. Due to increased blood clotting, it can be used for bleeding and inflammatory processes.
A decoction of yarrow is also used for diabetes mellitus. A tablespoon of herbs is crushed and 200 ml of boiling water is poured, then the leaves with water are brought to a boil and, removed from the stove, left for 30 minutes.
After that, the liquid is separated from the leaves and half a glass is drunk three times a day after meals.
Yarrow tincture is made from dried shoots with flowers. Two tablespoons of dry material are poured into 200 ml of vodka and kept for 7 days in the dark and warm.
Further, the infusion is separated from flowers and herbs and used 20 drops three times a day before meals. Usually, a tincture of yarrow on vodka is used for spasms, angina pectoris, for problems of female gynecology, especially for menstrual irregularities.
The sap of the plant is used for ulcers, skin tuberculosis, and also simply as a means that has a positive effect on the body.
Medicines from yarrow cannot be used during pregnancy, thrombosis is also not recommended for long-term use of yarrow, because as a result of this, rashes form on the skin and headaches and dizziness appear.
No matter how great a folk remedy may seem, always first of all consult a doctor, because self-medication can lead to much worse results than those that were at the beginning of the disease.
Kalanchoe does not bloom: what to do
To make the Kalanchoe bloom pleasing to all household members, create an environment that will resemble the natural habitat of the plant. The atmosphere of a tropical winter is considered natural for a flower, during which there is a shortening of daylight hours, light rains and not too high temperatures.
How to make Kalanchoe bloom? Proceed according to the following plan:
Creation of artificial hibernation
To stop the growth of Kalanchoe, cut the stems after the end of the budding season. Leave a few centimeters from the ground.
Cover the plant with a cloth and place it in a dark and cool place for two months. Make sure that the temperature in it is within 15 ° C. Do not forget to water the Kalanchoe once every two weeks.
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In order for the plant to continue growing and developing, after two months, return it to its original place and start strengthening the crown until November. The following tips will help you cope with this task:
- Water a little more often than before, once every 10 days. When doing this, make sure that the soil is not too wet. In this case, reduce the frequency of watering. Use warm water for irrigation, make sure that it is not hard.
- Control the temperature in the room. The temperature must be between 16 ° C and 25 ° C.
Help in the appearance of kidneys
When the previous stage is passed, it is time to help the plant form buds. First of all, make sure that the duration of daylight hours is at least eight hours. I assure you, this is not at all difficult to do at home.
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You just need to darken the flower after a certain period of time. It is not worth moving the Kalanchoe to another place. It is enough to cover it with a dark plastic bag.
Also remember that one of the most famous plants that are harmed by excessive fertilization is the Kalanchoe. Flowering may not occur if you overdo it with feeding.
To enjoy beautiful flowers, do not fertilize the plant more than once a month. In this case, be sure to read the instructions for fertilization and remember that only half of the norm described in the manual is needed for Kalanchoe.
For the plant to be strong and bloom every year, you do not need to make colossal efforts.It is enough to remember the simple rules of care and do not forget to check with the seller if you are going to purchase a hybrid plant.
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