In gardening practice, there are often situations that require transplanting currants to a new place... Most often this is due to a mistake during site selection, depletion of the soil under a bush or redevelopment of the site.
Transplanting an adult shrub to another place - great stress for the plant, which is accompanied by pain and often leads to his death.
Therefore, the procedure must be carried out taking into account the biological characteristics and the annual cycle of the currant.
When is it better to transplant currants to a new place: in autumn or spring, in what month?
Which month is more favorable? The timing of transplanting currants completely depends on the climatic conditions of the region. In regions with harsh winters when the air temperature drops below 30 ° C, a spring transplant is preferable.
But at the same time, it is important to take into account the peculiarities of the annual cycle of a culture that enters the growing season early. After the start of sap flow, the shrub will receive a double load, trying to root and at the same time increasing the green mass.
Spring transplant carried out after the soil has completely thawed, the temperature rises to + 1 ° C and until the buds swell. This limits the transplantation time, reduces the time for quiet rooting to three weeks.
There are much more favorable factors for the autumn transplantation of currants. This is a stable temperature until the first frost, which gives time for the roots to adapt to a new place.
In addition, in autumn, currant cells contain much more nutrients and a descending current predominates, which contribute to the rapid healing of root wounds and give strength for recovery.
Therefore, in the middle and southern regions of horticulture, the shrub prefer to transplant in autumn... At the same time, it is important to determine the most accurate dates, at least three weeks should remain before the first frost.
The ideal time for transplantation is the period between September 10-15, it is at this time that the most active growth of the absorbed roots is noted. This factor significantly increases the survival rate of currants.
Stages of the correct transplantation of an adult bush
The basis for a successful transplant of an adult shrub - the correct choice of location, preparation of soil and shrubs.
Site selection and preparation
Red and white currants are heat-loving plants... For them, leveled areas are selected, oriented to the southern or southwestern direction. In such areas, the soil is warmed up by the sun's rays, well aerated and water does not stagnate.
Black and green currant less whimsical plants. Good indicators of a stable yield are noted when planted on the slopes of the northern or northeastern direction. Short-term shading is acceptable.
The best predecessors of currants are row crops, which help to cleanse the area from rhizome weeds. These are potatoes, beets, corn, buckwheat and beans.
Unsuitable for growing lowland currants and closed basins, where cold air stagnates and humidity is high. This contributes to the development of fungal diseases and the appearance of root rot.
The selected place is dug up in early spring to a depth of 40 cm with fertilization per 1 m2:
- compost or manure 10 kg;
- double superphosphate 10 g;
- potassium chloride 7 g.
In the summer, in August, the site is dug up again and form a bush hole. For a spring transplant, the site is prepared in the fall.
Determining the size of the pit, they are guided by the volume of the bush. In most cases enough depth 40 cm and width 60 cm... For tall and remontant varieties, a depth of 60-70 cm is required. The distance between the bushes is at least 1.5 meters.
After digging, the hole is 1/3 filled with substrate from mixed components:
- the top layer of garden soil from the pit;
- rotted manure or compost 10 kg;
- superphosphate 300 g (for black currant) 200 g (red, white);
- wood ash 400 g or potassium sulfate 30 g.
For red and white currants, dig a hole deeper and at the bottom, a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken brick is formed, not more than 15% of the total volume.
Thereafter the pit is spilled with 1-2 buckets of water... Before transplanting the currants, all the conditions for comfortable adaptation of the roots will be created inside the pit.
The substrate is structured and saturated with moisture, and the introduced minerals and organic matter will take easy forms for the plant to assimilate and will not cause burns to the roots.
Preparation of red and black currant bush
During transplantation, the volume of the roots of the shrub will significantly decrease, which makes it difficult to feed the vegetative mass. Therefore, currants cut off 2-3 weeks before the upcoming event, leaving only areas significant for fruiting and development. For autumn planting, pruning can be done in the spring, before the buds swell.
At the base of the bush there is a branching zone. Strong lateral shoots grow from it, at a height of 30-40 cm the fruiting zone begins, characterized by weak branching. Shoots here are short, but with developed flower buds, so most of the harvest is placed on them.
On top branches are also massively formed fruit buds, which are noticeably weaker and give only small berries. Therefore, the main branches of the shrub are cut by 1/3, without fear of harm to the harvest of the next season. After pruning, the average height of the currants should be 45-50 cm.
Productivity of currant fruit 5 years, there is no point in leaving outdated branches on the bush... The development of currants is impeded by tops, shoots and dried branches, they should also be removed.
Do not combine shrub pruning with transplanting. This is a double load for the plant, which will distribute the forces for healing wounds and adapting roots in a new place. This can cause the death of the currant.
You can transplant to another place!
During transplantation, a groove is dug around the trunk circle with a depth of 30-35 cm, stepping back from the trunk by 40 cm.After that, you need to gently pull the shrub at the base of the branches, cutting off the roots with a bayonet shovel.
For the convenience of the event currant branches are tied like a spindle... Additionally, this will protect the fruit branches from breaking. The dug out shrubbery is placed on a tarp for transportation to the planting site.
Further examine the roots, clean them of pests, cut off dried and rotten areas... The disinfection procedure is carried out by placing the plant roots in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes.
A shrub with healthy roots is transplanted without pretreatment.
At the bottom of the landing hole form a mound from the prepared substrate and spill with 1-2 buckets of water... After that, they wait until the water is absorbed. Planting in a too humid environment will lead to excessive shrinkage of the shrub, which often becomes the cause of improper development.
Also take into account that the root collar of the shrub should remain 5 cm below the surface of the substrate.
With respect to the cardinal points, the currants are positioned similarly to the previous place. Currant roots are distributed over the surface of the mound, preventing unnatural bends upward.
When backfilling the roots, make sure that no voids are formed, which often become the causes of decay. To do this, during the procedure, the bush is periodically shaken.
The surface is tamped and a hole for watering is formed around the trunk circle... Water (20 l) is poured in gradually, waiting for complete absorption. With this watering, the water completely covers the roots, increasing their contact with the soil.
After that, the trunk circle and the hole are mulched with peat, humus or sod soil.
After transplanting, the shrub will need the help of a gardener. The soil in the near-trunk circle is kept in a constantly loose state... This is necessary to create an optimal balance of water and air for proper nutrition and respiration of the roots.
At the base of the shrub, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-6 cm, closer to the watering hole up to 15 cm.
In the fall, the shrub is prepared for winter:
- clean the trunk circle from plant debris;
- lay a layer of peat or straw mulch at least 15 cm in height;
- cover the stem with spruce branches;
- spraying with fungicides;
- branches are collected to the center and tied with twine;
- pull snow to the bush.
In the first two weeks after planting, if there is no rain, need regular watering every other day... So that the soil is moistened up to 60 cm deep. For this, 3-4 buckets of water are used.
In the first year, currant feeding is not needed. After two weeks, the irrigation time is determined by the condition of the soil under the bush.
Scattering the soil into small pieces after squeezing in the hand indicates the need for urgent watering. This indicator is guided by throughout the growing season.
Weakened shrubs are most attractive to pests and diseases, which is explained by the temporary loss of stability. Therefore, the task of the gardener during this period is complete control over the currants, especially in the first year of development.
BUT insecticides and fungicides can help with this, which can be prepared from herbal ingredients or purchased ready-made preparations.
How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 1:
How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 2:
When and how best to transplant plums to a new place - in autumn or spring
There are various reasons when it is necessary to transplant plums on the site or to bring them for this from another place, but the necessary processes change only depending on the age of the useful tree. Despite the plant's ability to live in variable climatic conditions, plum transplanting is a delicate and responsible business. The tree does not perceive such transformations well and tolerates them painfully, so you need to act carefully and carefully.
Features of spring transplant
Many gardeners are interested in - are we doing the right thing when replanting shrubs in autumn or spring? It should be noted that the procedure is permissible in both periods of the year. It is important to focus on the condition of the plant. In the fall, it is customary to transplant it after all the foliage has fallen off. In the spring, this is done until the buds appear and the currant begins to grow.
Many experienced summer residents call the transplant in the spring rather a forced measure. It is supported by the fact that plants do not experience such severe stress after winter. How to properly transplant currants in the spring? To do this, it is worth waiting until the ground warms up well. The temperature of its layer should be at least 5 degrees Celsius. If it was not possible to carry out the work in the spring, they should be postponed until the fall or spring of next year.
It is recommended to transplant shrubs obtained with the help of cuttings last year, or cuttings with a good root system, which overwintered in a greenhouse or in a cellar.
In order for the bushes to survive the procedure normally, it is advised to transfer their roots along with the ground. Mandatory after transplanting is mulching with potash fertilizers, humus, loose peat, wood ash, sawdust and dry grass. To take root, the bushes need watering heated in the sun or water at room temperature.
Reproduction and transplantation methods
There are many videos about transplanting currants to a new place in the fall. From them, you can clearly glean a lot of information on this topic (see above).
- cuttings, autumn and summer
- vegetatively, layering
- dividing the bush
- rejuvenating the bush and transplanting it to a new place.
Under good conditions and proper care, the plant takes root within three weeks. Transplanting currants in the fall to a new place, its timing depends on the region.
Vegetative propagation of the bush
To do this, choose a strong healthy branch of the bush. She is bent to the ground. Fix with a metal hook and drop in. It is fashionable to do it in early spring or autumn, in August, September, early October.
It is instilled in after the kidneys become dormant, about a month before the first frosts should begin. Transplanting currants in the fall to a new place in the Moscow region takes place later than in the northern regions (end of September).
During the first three weeks, the cuttings form a root and take root. The next year, he releases the first twigs. In the fall, this will already be a formed bush. It is cut off from the mother bush, carefully dug up and planted in pre-prepared holes.
Dividing the bush
From a large overgrown bush, you can separate the cuttings from the root and plant it. Transplanting currants in the fall to a new place in Siberia occurs in August, early September. To do this, dig in a bush around the perimeter, so as not to damage the root system. After that, the bush is carefully removed. Shake off the ground.
Choose a strong root cut and separate it from the mother bush. Then it is planted. Under the old bush, you need to add organic and mineral fertilizers by mixing with the ground. This division rejuvenates the old shrub, makes it possible to propagate the shrub on the site.
Rejuvenating the bush and transplanting to a new place
A bush over 6, 7 years old can be rejuvenated and transplanted to a new place. Transplanting currants in the fall to a new place in the Urals takes place in September.
To do this, dug out his bush, trying as carefully as possible so that the roots are preserved. Cleans them of clods of earth. They make a revision of the root system, cleanse them from insects.
Cut out rotten and missing with pruning shears, you can separate this part with processes and discard. Strongly long roots are pruned. Then they are planted in a new place.
Old branches are cut, the rest are shortened, leaving up to 4 buds.
Transplanting currants in the fall to a new place by cuttings is one of the most common. Autumn sprouts can give the first berries as early as next year, if they are well rooted and survived the winter. But grafting and planting can be done in spring and even summer (green grafting).
The plant is cut in the fall, when the plant has thrown off the foliage. For these purposes, the middle of annual shoots, which began to grow stiff, are suitable. They choose strong shoots, thin and weak ones may not take root.
The top is cut with a straight cut, 5, 6 buds are counted and an oblique cut is made a centimeter below the latter. Red currants are planted earlier (in August), and black currants later (September).
It is calculated, depending on the region, so that about a month remains before frost. The length of the appendix is up to 20 centimeters. Cut only when the weather is dry.
For a nursery, it is better to make markings, pull on a rope or cord. Choose a bright place, the distance between seedlings is up to 15 centimeters. The lower end of the twig can be soaked in plant growth stimulants.
A hole is dug to a depth of approximately 25 centimeters. Peat, ash, humus are brought there. Sprinkle with earth so that the roots do not bake.
You can add some complex mineral fertilizers. Pour in water. It is deepened into several buds (2, 3) and planted, bending the cutting (at an angle of 45 degrees). This is done so that more shoots start in this position. They are covered with earth and again filled with water. Further, during the month, they are actively watered. Already in the spring, the bush can be transferred to a permanent place.
Can an adult flowering bush be moved?
During flowering, currants can be transplanted only in exceptional cases - when the soil is contaminated with pests or before the upcoming sale of the site.The procedure must be carried out with the utmost care, removing the bush while preserving the soil on the roots.
The gardener should be aware that replanting during the growing season will result in the loss of flowers. Berries will not appear on currants this season. If the root system is disturbed during the transplantation, the bush will recover for 2-3 years.
Preparing a bush for transplanting
Dividing the currant bush after digging
Transplanting a bush in the fall does not require thermal disinfection when the bush is spilled with boiling water. The kidneys are still active at this time. Therefore, after digging, only very old damaged roots are removed, the saw cut is thickly covered with garden pitch (layer up to 3 mm). Bush pruning is a post-transplant stage.
If you plan to transplant currants with simultaneous division into several parts for reproduction, carefully dig out the bush, trying not to damage the roots. Then the plant is examined. Skeletal branches are cut with a sharp pruner or garden saw, leaving only 1-2 years. Remove old roots. The bush is cut into pieces with an ax. The division is carried out so that each new bush has:
- full buds on branches or at their base
- branched young roots.
Cuts with a diameter of more than 1 cm are coated with garden pitch. In addition to preventing infections, the product will not allow pests to get inside.
Features of transplanting currants in different seasons
It is believed that the optimal time for transplanting currants is autumn: after all, it is easier to work with the land than in early spring. With a spring transplant, work should be started as soon as the ground thaws, and the temperature slightly exceeds positive values. Swollen kidneys are a signal that, perhaps, time has already been lost, and it is better to postpone the transplant until autumn. Moreover, it is impossible to transplant currants, which have already appeared buds: the probability of the survival of such a bush is close to zero.
In the spring, it is better to transplant young bushes, no more than three years old, and older ones only in the fall. Spring transplantation is good in that the soil will mainly be on the roots, its shedding is less than in autumn. To make rooting easier, the water for watering the transplanted bush should be slightly warmed (up to 15-20 degrees), despite the low ambient temperature. Most likely, a bush transplanted in spring will hardly bear fruit: it will not have enough strength for this, and the flowers will be dropped.
Autumn transplantation is carried out at the latest, after leaf fall, when frosts are already frequent, but stable negative temperatures have not yet come. Depending on the terrain, this can be both the end of October and the beginning of November, and in the north even earlier: about 3 weeks should remain before the onset of real frosts. Being late is fraught with the fact that the bush will not have time to take root, and with early planting, the buds may wake up.
Bushes transplanted in the fall must be covered for the winter. It can be several buckets of compost or even non-woven materials, and in the coldest areas - roofing material. When constructing a shelter, one should take into account the possibility of damage to currants by rodents and decompose poisoned baits.
The transplanted bush before the onset of winter can simply be "dressed" in spunbond
Is it possible to transplant currants in the summer? It is very undesirable to do this, but as a last resort, young bushes are still transplanted. A summer transplant is necessarily carried out with a large clod of earth. Watering currants in a new place is carried out often and abundantly. If there were berries on it, they should be cut off, at whatever stage this happens: the bush will not have the strength to bear fruit. Almost without problems in summer, you can plant only seedlings with a closed root system, which are sold in special containers.
Transplanting adult currant bushes to a new place is always stress for the plant, but if it is carried out on time and correctly, the success of engraftment is almost guaranteed. This should be done during a period of relative rest, carefully, and after transplanting, pay maximum attention to the bushes.