In January, on the territory of the European part of the country, winter becomes a sovereign mistress, and the land is covered with a white "feather bed". Gardeners always have worries.
Gardening chores in January
For example, you need control over the safety of the crop grown in the season... Systematic monitoring of the condition of vegetables, fruits and flower bulbs stored in basements and storage facilities is required. When fruit flies appear in a room where plant products are stored, including in an apartment, it does not hurt to check it, since these insects usually settle on rotting plant products. Such products need to be sorted out in order to find a focus of rot.
If individual diseased root crops or whole lesions are found, they are carefully removed, and also taken out intact, lying nearby (probably stained with soft rot) roots. If several root vegetables are affected and an abundant mycelium (white or gray rot) has formed, it is better to throw the entire contents out of a plastic bag or box. It is impossible to cut the affected area from the carrot, since the toxins of the fungus are spread throughout the root crop and can cause poisoning of both humans and animals. This applies, first of all, to the defeat of carrots with fusarium, white or gray rot, black and gray (penicillous) rot.
This month, especially if it has little snow, may well be suitable for uprooting old, unnecessary fruit trees... Now it is much easier to remove them - without prejudice to the nearby green plants located in the summer: plantings of strawberries, berry bushes and other perennials. They are now covered with snow, so the winter operation won't hurt them.
First, they shove off the snow from the tree (of course, it would be better to dig the tree beforehand in the fall so as to expose the root collar and part of the upper roots). First, you need to determine where the tree should fall in order to eliminate the likelihood of an accident; therefore, it is first filed from the side where it falls. Only after that they start cutting down the tree from the opposite side of the saw.
You can pre-cut the lower branches to spread them in the places of the intended fall: they will reduce the likelihood of damage to plantings from a fallen tree. The remaining small stump with roots can be burned out. For this purpose, it is best to use an iron barrel without a bottom: place it in such a way that the stump is inside. Combustible rubbish, wood rubbish is thrown into the barrel and everything is set on fire. In this way it is especially convenient to burn out stumps located next to the undergrowth of a felled tree, which can be marked for grafting, i.e. to replace the mother tree.
Some gardeners suggest a different way to remove the stump. A deepening is made on its upper cut and 1-2 handfuls of nitrate or urea are poured there, and the top is covered (even tied) with a film so as not to reduce the concentration (as a result of washing out by rainfall) of this substance that decomposes wood. For 1-2 years, the stump, along with the roots, turns into dust. To reduce the concentration of nitrogen in the soil around the "chopped" stump, in the spring they recommend planting it with any annual plants that are buried in compost in the fall. In our opinion, this method is unsuccessful, since it takes too much time and "knocks out" part of the site from use, especially if it is small in area.
In January you can also do strengthening the branches of fruit trees, since often there is not enough time for this procedure in the summer-autumn period. The mass of supports under fruit trees in early autumn interferes with tillage, and often each of these supports can damage the tree bark, so in winter you can start replacing them with "bundles". Sectors cut from an old tire are fixed on the branches of a tree and tied together with galvanized (stainless) wire. Such a device is able to reliably protect branches from damage and facilitates the processing of the trunk circle. For thinner branches, it is recommended to use an old bicycle tire, and for the thinnest - bicycle tube rings.
Lunar sowing calendar of the gardener and gardener for January
With the establishment of permanent strong frosty days, hares can often visit summer cottages (especially in gardens adjacent to the forest) to feast on the bark and shoots of young trees, which can be severely affected by this. The wounds inflicted on trees by these animals are quite deep, so the tops of young grafted fruit trees (especially when gnawing in a ring) usually die.
But there is no need to rush to "bury" such a plant. We urgently need to cover it and wait for spring and the beginning of the growing season. If the buds remain viable above the graft, young shoots will grow from them and branches will form. Of the strongest of them, it will then be possible to organize a central conductor near the seedling (the future main trunk), which must be tied from its southern side to the support (for straightening). Cut off the rest.
It is not advised to arrange dumps of cut branches of fruit trees near the garden. This can bring hares to the site: then the rodents will move to living trees. So, the winter before last, "oblique" liked the branches of an old pear that I felled in late autumn. They began to visit the garden as well. Fortunately, there was no damage to it, because the young pears were well covered. Therefore, those who did not have time to take care of the protection of young seedlings should do it immediately.
All-Russian Research Institute of Plant Protection
Do not rush to the garden! What is really worth sowing in January
When the New Year holidays are over, the thought comes willy-nilly, isn't it time to sow something before it's too late? Let's see if it is justified to sow any seeds in January, and if so, which ones?
First of all, it should be noted that it is necessary to plant those plants that need stratification (the cooling period that they naturally pass in nature in winter). The list can be found just below:
However, do not rush to sow large quantities of seeds. First of all, all the windowsills will be filled with seedlings. You also need to understand that without a good phytolamp, it will not be possible to grow good seedlings 100%.
If you really want to keep yourself busy in January, it is better to buy a frail plant in the store at a big discount and go out.
You can also look at the adorable little potted plants. Miniature roses are very popular.
Also, after the winter holidays, there are bushes with conifers, which no one needs anymore and are also sold at a big discount. You can take and plant for your garden.
Now let's check out the plants that don't need to be planted in January, contrary to popular advice: celery, strawberries, and eustoma. Planted in March, they will be much stronger, stronger and healthier.
Be sure to sow the following seeds in January, if you like them and would like to see them in your garden - these are lavender, clematis, primrose, delphinium, biennial bell, carnation.
You can, although not necessarily in January (you can also in March), sow the following seeds: balsam, paniculata phlox, begonia, gloxinia, aquilegia. These plants grow well both from January and from February-March. Decide for yourself whether it is worth sowing them in January or it is better to wait a little for the brighter and stronger sun outside the window.
For more information on what can be sown in January, see the video below:
What to do in the garden in September
They have grown in the garden and vegetable garden, ripened vegetables and fruits, which are gradually sent to cozy bins. And it's time for the real owner to start preparing the garden for the new season. We will talk about what to do in the garden in September today, so:
We lay a flower garden
September is the time for the formation of a new flower garden of perennials. Draw a sketch, keeping the required spacing between the flowers. The distance is calculated according to the future size of the plants. Large, vigorous flowers need an area of 0.5-1 sq. m. Otherwise, they will bloom poorly, will not be able to develop a full-fledged green mass. And besides, weak plants, when thickened, are more susceptible to various diseases.
Smaller ones can be planted 3-4 plants per 1 sq. m. Flowers of medium size - 4-10 pieces per square. Low, creeping or carpet have 10-25 per 1 sq. m. Such a planting density makes it possible for plants to receive the required amount of heat, nutrients and sunlight. The recommended distances will allow you to arrange the flowers in such a way that next year they, touching each other with leaves, should close the soil and, peacefully adjoining, form a blooming oasis.
Lilies are transplanted at four years, once in September. When planting lilies, it is best to use a scoop rather than a peg. The holes from the latter are conical in shape, and when planted, a void is formed under the bulb. Bulbs with adventitious, supra-lily roots are planted at a depth of at least 15-20 cm, sub-bulbs at a level of 10-15 cm. And only the white lily prefers a shallow planting. On light soil, the bulb is buried by 4 cm, on heavy soil - 2 cm. After planting, the bulbs are insulated on top with a layer of dry leaves.
Due to the fact that peonies can grow without transplanting for 25 years, old bushes should be divided only when the flowering has weakened and the flowers have been crushed. Peonies are divided in the fall, at the time of the end of the growth of buds, renewal on the rhizome. These buds will sprout next year. The optimal time for digging up and dividing peonies is from mid-August to mid-September (see the article "Breeding methods for peonies")
Greening the balcony
There are still two warm months ahead, which can provide enough light for the plants on the balcony. The blooming balcony space will become a worthy continuation of summer color. For location on the balcony, medium and low-growing plants are chosen. They are planted in balcony boxes. For example, chrysanthemums that do not have time to reveal their potential on the street, but on the balcony they will bloom safely until November. Small-flowered are especially good, which are distinguished by abundant flowering.
Choose low-growing late-flowering perennial asters as partners for chrysanthemums. They tolerate flowering transplant well. Along with chrysanthemums and asters, heather looks appropriate in the balcony boxes.
During frosts, balcony flower boxes can be covered with foil or non-woven material and removed when the temperature rises.
Sedum prominent - one of the late flowering plants, can become an ornament of the autumn garden. Its place is on alpine slides or rockeries. Fleshy ovoid leaves with a bluish-green tint look harmoniously against the gray background of decorative stones. Plant height 20-30 cm. Stonecrop blooms in September in large corymbose inflorescences up to 15 cm in diameter. Flowering continues until late autumn. 5-7 scutes are formed on one plant. To date, varieties with inflorescences of various shades have been bred.
The sedum is frost-resistant, it tolerates severe frosts well and does not require shelter. The plant reproduces by dividing the bush throughout the season and even during flowering. The sedum is well cut. Accidentally broken shoots can also be used, which quickly grow roots in wet soil.
Celery is a plant that doesn't like cold temperatures. Therefore, it is necessary to remove the tubers before the first frost on the soil. For celery, remove all the leaves along the outer edge and keep the inner ones. It is necessary to cut it off carefully with a sharp knife, damaged tubers are poorly stored. The tubers are stored in the sand, tightly stacked to each other and leaving the tops with leaves outside. Cut dried leaves make an excellent seasoning.
We warm asparagus
Asparagus is gaining popularity on Russian tables and, accordingly, in gardens. In the first autumn after planting, we carefully prepare asparagus plantings for winter. Remove and burn all the yellowed parts of the plant, dig up between the rows without damaging the roots, cover with old humus or a thick layer of dry leaves.
We plant strawberries
If the seedlings of varietal strawberries were purchased in September, they should be planted in a special seedling bed. Soil - two parts of peat, one part each of compost (humus) and garden soil. Seedlings are planted according to the scheme 10 x 10 cm, watered and mulched. When planted tightly, it is easier to keep the plant from winter damage. By spring, the seedlings will have developed strong roots and will be ready to be transplanted to a permanent location.
We go to visit
You can even update your ideas for a garden in the fall at a party. When visiting gardeners you know, stock up on paper, a pen, and a couple of envelopes. They will come in handy if you see interesting ideas and ideas about how what to do in the garden in September or you want to collect the ripe seeds of the plants you like.
You can read more about gardening in September HERE. See you !
What to do in the country in February: work in the garden and in the garden
Gardening calendar for February
Be sure to visit your site to check how reliable the plants are. protected from frost... This month they can make themselves felt like no other. See if protective cover is in place. Usually foliage and brushwood at the end of winter can be displaced by the wind. If necessary, renew the layer or cover the plants with jute bags for a while.
Carry out snow retention work... Compact snow cover around perennials, fruit trees, ornamental plants, shrubs. Walk around the entire site for longer. This will compact the snow well and keep it from melting in spring for a longer period, that is, it will retain moisture. This event is especially important in winters with little snow.
February is characterized by blizzards alternating with thaws. Such weather kotovasiya leads to the adhesion of a huge amount of snow on the branches of trees. That is why, along with tamping don't be lazy to shake off the snow, otherwise its excess will lead to breakage of branches. In addition, the earth needs it more: loose snow will protect the roots of plants from freezing in severe frosts.
February is considered a fairly snowy month, but there are often clear days at this time. During the day, the sun begins to warm up well. At this time, the temperature rises sharply, the soil thaws, and water accumulates on its surface. As a result, the plants wake up and start growing.
Such weather can last up to 7-10 days, and then cold weather returns again, sometimes even severe frosts. A crust of ice appears on the surface of the soil, which often leads to the inevitable death of perennial seedlings, berries, in particular strawberries, and flowers.
Due to temperature fluctuations trees suffer from frost cracks, sometimes their kidneys can freeze, and the bark gets sunburn. This must be followed throughout February. Burns should be lubricated with garden varnish as soon as possible. The tree trunks need to be whitewashed again if the old whitewash has crumbled here and there.
Prune fruit trees in winter. Do this only during the thaw. This operation, even in low frost, can damage the plants.
At the end of the month, vaccinate fruit trees and grape cuttings.Make sure that rodents cannot profit from cuttings. Store the roots with grafted cuttings buried in slightly damp sand in a cool place until spring. Avoid premature kidney opening. To do this, maintain the correct temperature.
The end of the month is a good time to harvest cuttings. Also look at the cuttings harvested in the fall and add some water to the sand where they are stored.
Rodent control on site
February is the time when rodents are running out of food supplies and they go out in search of food in orchards. In addition to compacted snow, spruce branches can be used to protect plants from hares and mice. If the trunks have been tied with spruce branches since autumn, be sure to look at them, and, if necessary, update the protection.
Caring for indoor plants in winter
At home, in rooms, almost all of our plants are at rest in winter.
Ventilate the rooms carefully so that jets of cold air do not hit them. Remember to avoid drafts - they are harmful to all plants.
Most indoor plants are watered less in winter than in summer. Do not forget that humid air is very important for them. Try to place saucers with water, wet sand, aquariums next to it. Plants with leathery, dense leaves (citrus, ficus, monstera, philodendron, escinanthus) require spraying. Falling green leaves of ficuses, citrus fruits in winter is usually explained by excessive watering. Reduce it by spraying more frequently and the plants will regain their healthier appearance.
Prevent bulbs, cacti and subtropical crops from growing as this will overgrow and weaken. Place them on windows, screen them from warm air with glass or plastic wrap, especially with central heating. But in severe frosts on the windowsill, the temperature can drop significantly, so make sure that the leaves and especially the roots do not freeze.
The result of caring about creating favorable conditions for plants in the winter rainy period in the garden and at home will surely be an abundant friendly flowering of your garden in spring and healthy indoor plants.
Preparing for the upcoming summer cottage season
The garden in the life of modern people is a wonderful place to relax. Summer residents are not only engaged in planting.
In winter, you can prepare everything for a convenient and healthy pastime in the summer:
- arrange a stationary barbecue grill
- clear a safe place for a fire
- repair or build a gazebo for gatherings
- bring light into it
- make wooden garden benches, chairs, table
- repair the wiring
- dig a hole for the pool if the ground is not frozen
- check the serviceability of the water supply system, conduct, repair if necessary
- buy skewers and dishes
- buy ready-made or do-it-yourself swing for children.